Toy sellers at the harbour

Many countries are renowned for their street traders selling anything from watches to sun block along their beaches.

Puerto del Carmen has a different type of trader – the flashing toy merchants.

They prey on unsuspecting families around the harbour after dark, their wares flashing away in bright colours, in the hope that the small children will be so fascinated that their parents will be unwilling to say „no“ on holiday.

One of the tricks it to get a small child to actually take the toy, making it even harder for the parents to avoid having to pay for it.

A favourite spot seems to be the playground near to the boules. Here they do not like taking no for an answer – in any language!

New Look for Puerto del Carmen

by Nick Ball

Could Lanzarote’s oldest resort be about to become the Puerto Banus of the Canaries? It’s a bit of a stretch for anyone who has visited the island over the last few years, as Puerto del Carmen, still the most popular destination on Lanzarote, has been looking a little tired around the edges of late. Thanks to the impact of over thirty years of package tourism.

But now island authorities are pressing ahead with ambitions plans to “reinvent” tourism in Puerto del Carmen by taking the resort upmarket. A project which has profound implications for the both the future of tourism on the island and the Lanzarote property market.

Puerto del Carmen Harbour
Part of the harbour extension is towed into position and sunk (Photo: C. & L. Tappenden)

Puerto del Carmen is the place where tourism first took root on Lanzarote. Growing dramatically over the last thirty years to transform a small fishing village called La Tiñosa into a bustling holiday destination. And now Puerto del Carmen is about to undergo a second metamorphosis – as island authorires start work on a project that is designed to maintain the resorts popularity as newer, fresher challengers enter the holiday market.

The central plank of this plan is the project to turn the Old Town Harbour area – currently home to a few old fishing boats and excursion vessels – into a luxury marina. A project inspired by the runaway success of the marina at nearby Puerto Calero – now the most upmarket destination on the island, where property prices command a premium.

Local tourist authorities hope that this new marina – which is already in construction and which should be completed by May 2009 – will have a similar halo effect in terms of attracting a more affluent tourist to the resort. Whilst also creating a more upmarket ambience.

Roadworks in Puerto del Carmen
Roadworks in Puerto del Carmen (Photo: C. & L. Tappenden)

This desire to improve the aesthetic feel of Puerto del Carmen also encompasses the current project to part pedestrianise the main beachfront strip, the Avenida de las Playas. Where tourists currently come a very poor second to two lanes of traffic. As well as the imposition of new uniform, shop fronts and fascias on the units lining the Avenida – which currently advertise themselves with a fairly garish kealdsicope of neon signage.

These multi million euro initiatives – in tandem with the opening of the new golf course on the outskirts of the resort next year – are expected to have a positive impact on both tourist numbers and property values over the years to come. Regardless of current concerns about the economic climate.

Bolivia, Chile and the (psst… Sea!)

It’s something that you never talk about as a visitor to Bolivia – well almost never: Bolivia’s access to the sea.  If you do, it stirs up hot feelings about at a topic that has been around for 125 years!

OK, here is the compact version of events:

– at the end of a war between Bolivia and Chile, Chile annexed land between Bolivia and the Pacific coast

– Bolivia was thus landlocked and it’s only access to a major port was by crossing the Andes and through Chile


A statue by Lake Titicaca commemorates the lost coastline

In fact, there is (or at least, was) a railway line that ran from La Paz down into Chile – the train running on it being an old S-Bahn carriage from Munich.

One of the easiest ways to think about the situation is to compare it with the connections between West Germany and West Berlin during the Cold War – they were there, but the West did not like being restricted by their neighbour and the East resented having to provide the access in the first place.

Chile allows Bolivia access to the sea, but on its terms.  Bolivia resents this, but does not really have much choice.

Take a look at the Bolivia coat of arms and you can count ten stars on it – one for each province in the country.  Except that Bolivia only has nine provinces – the tenth is the one that was annexed by Chile and remains on the coat of arms to show that Bolivia still makes a claim to this area.

So imagine my surprise this week when I read that Chile wants to give Bolivia better access to the port, such as being able to import goods without them being checked by Chilean customs.  I wonder how Bolivia will react?  More of a grateful “thank you” or will it be a case of “thanks, but we’ll like our land back and not just access to it”?

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