Flying with Iberia

I first flew to Lanzarote with Iberia six years ago – returning this year I found out that the level of service had gone downhill.

It’s worth remembering what has happened in those six years – airport security has been stepped up considerably. It is no longer possible to take liquids onto planes (with few exceptions).

Firstly, it was almost impossible to find out when we had to check-in by. The airport, online travel agent and the Iberia website all gave different answers, so we got there as early as possible, only to find that the check-in desk hadn’t opened yet. The “check-in by” time from the airport seemed to be the time that the desk actually opened!

Then there were conflicting details about hand luggage – Frankfurt airport allows 8kg, Iberia stated 10kg. As if this wasn’t enough, returning through Arrecife the signs at the gate showed a maximum of 6kg.

Changing planes in Madrid (T4/T4S) was also a long process, which involved not only a long walk but also a ride on an underground monorail. Admittedly, nothing to do with Iberia itself, but it all added to the experience.

At the gate in Madrid, the time on the gate did no match the departure time on the board. Someone asked the employee sitting at the gate desk if the flight to Frankfurt (this was on the return journey) went from this gate and was told “no”. Actually, in the end, it did!

But my real gripe has to be the on-board service. Firstly, the crew from Frankfurt to Madrid spoke almost no German and only a smattering of English. This may not affect me so much, but it did affect those passengers who spoke no Spanish. Even the safety announcement in German was from a tape that did not entirely match up with the information being given on the PA in Spanish.

But worse – there is no longer a meal or drinks on board! Six years ago, drinks were included in the price of the flight and there was even a snack on the way to Madrid and a warm meal on the way to Arrecife.

This time you had to buy any drinks (remember, you can’t take your own on board!) at 2,50EUR for a can of soft drink (per person). The only food was a selection of baguettes and rolls at horrendous prices (6-8EUR!)

In future, I think I’ll pay more attention when booking flights as to what is in included, or at the very last have a packed lunch ready. How times have changed…

Internet cafés

If you want to stay in touch with the rest of the world during a visit to Bolivia, you will inevitably find your way to an internet café. In Sucre there were several during my visit, and I also used one in La Paz. Although I am sure that there have been improvements since, there was a noticeable difference in the service quality between the different cafés.


A new internet café being built in Sucre, July 2000

Firstly, the connection in La Paz was much faster and more stable than in Sucre – I think the hardware was probably newer as well.

In Sucre, those cafés affiliated to the national telecommunications provider, Entelnet, definitely appeared to be faster.

La Paz was slightly more expensive, but all the cafés I visited offered good value for money – except one. A smaller, private internet café in Sucre (I think it was in the Calle Audencia) was so slow, that I was unable to read my webmail. As I left, I spotted a 56k modem at work and guess that the network was probably sharing this one analogue line.

As with any public computer, security is an important issue when using these facilities.  It is worth learning how to clear a web browser cache and cookies beforehand, as the computers may just be standard installations and not use any special software to reset them after one customer has finished as is common in European countries.

Child workers in Bolivia

Having reported on the abandoned children last week, it reminded me of the children that I saw in Bolivia working themselves to earn extra money for their families.

Before I went to Bolivia I was given the following advice: support the children that are earning their money honestly, as it motivates them to stay out of crime or begging.

It’s certainly true that having your shoes cleaned on a street corner will not really cost you much be German standards (more probably now than then). In Sucre I don’t remember so many children working in that business, that was something I encountered more in La Paz and Cochabamba. However, there were children working as guides at the cemetery.

For a small fee, they would show you around and point out the graves of important people. In fact, they had an extensive working knowledge of the layout and history of the cemetery.

In La Paz I did, once, have my shoes cleaned by a young boy. Actually they were my hike boots and needed it after the dust of Potosí! He worked so carefully – at one stage he picked up a tin of black shoe polish and I pointed out that my boots were brown. “No”, he replied, and pointed out that the bottom rim was indeed black and he proceeded to polish this from all sides with a thinner brush.

When he was finished my boots shone and I was prepared to pay more than the going rate, well a little bit at least to show my appreciation. Anything over the top and he might have taken offence to it.

Unfortunately he didn’t want to accept my dollar coin – he wanted a dollar bill, or the equivalent in Bolivianos. In fact, he preferred Bolivianos as was working as part of a group and had to divide up his earnings with the rest.

For me it was not easy to accept a child cleaning my shoes – it is the sort of thing that you would discourage in Germany, although many years ago in the UK it is the sort of thing the Scouts would have done in Job Week.

But by the time I was in La Paz, I had visited several institutions in the country and had learnt about some of the social structures. Often, these children are allowed to go to school for half a day in return for going out to work the other half. Either they earning their school fees, or a charity will pay the school fees in return for the parents accepting this form of deal.

If the children do not earn enough, the risk is that the parents will pull out of the deal and the children will no longer be allowed to go to school. Even worse, they may end up begging on the streets or even earning their money in less legal ways.

The child that cleaned my shoes and his friends seemed very cheerful – there were no adults with them putting pressure on them. They found their customers themselves and looked after them from beginning to end. Their earnings, although fairly shared out amongst the group, were not landing in the pocket of some overseer.

If your normal image of children working is of making clothes in illegal factories in Asia or even of boys sweeping chimneys in Victorian England – then this is no comparison.

Obviously it would be better for their education to be in school full time and not worrying about the family income, but as it is this is probably a reasonable compromise.

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